Inspect and Replace Exhaust System Components

Over the last 10 years or so, the use of aluminized and stainless steel for exhaust pipes has increased substantially. As you might think, the use of these materials has significantly increased the service life of the exhaust system.

However exhaust work is still done, albeit not to the extent it was in the past. For those times when exhaust work is required, let's take a look at how to inspect and replace exhaust system components.

The Basic Exhaust System

Most vehicles have a single exhaust system which includes a catalytic converter, a long length of pipe and a muffler. this long length of pipe can be fitted over a section of pipe extending from the converter and fitted into a section of pipe welded to the muffler.

In some applications, these connections might be flange connections, making removal much easier. On V-engines, there will be a crossover pipe, formed from exhaust pipes from each exhaust manifold that are welded together to make a single pipe.

There are probably several metal hangers, welded to the pipe, that are inserted into rubber isolators to support the exhaust system. Finally, don't forget that the downstream oxygen sensor is installed in the catalytic converter. Save this sensor and install it in the new converter.

Inspection and Removal

Let's begin at the tailpipe and muffler. Inspect all the seams of the muffler, including the weld of the pipe on the inlet side for holes and leaks. Note that on Chrysler O.E. mufflers there is a small vent hole, A, on the outlet side of the muffler (see Figure 1).

This allows water vapour to escape from the muffler; thus, preventing rust and extending the service life. Be sure that the replacement muffler has a vent hole.

As we move along the exhaust pipe toward the engine, the surface of the pipe will be rust covered. Inspect the pipe and catalytic converter for cracked joints, broken welds and corrosion damage that would result in a leaking exhaust system. You'll see that pipe clamps will be severely rusted on a vehicle with a lot of kilometres, B. Spray the clamp with Mopar Rust Penetrant, P/N 04318039AB, to aid in removal of the clamp, C (see Figure 2).

Begin the removal of the exhaust system at the exhaust manifold. Depending on the design, there might three or four bolts at the flanged connections, D. Be sure to install a new manifold gasket, E (see Figure 3).

If the entire exhaust system is being removed, drop the exhaust pipe and converter at the engine and then remove hangers from the rubber isolators. If a section of pipe is being removed, loosen the clamp bolt, F, in order to separate the two pipes (see Figure 4).

Now, it might be very difficult to separate the pipe. You might have to resort to sawing the pipe. If you have a cutting torch (not many people have one in their garage), you can cut the pipe. In both of these scenarios, an adapter will be necessary to install the new piece.

Installation

When installing a new exhaust, do not tighten the clamp bolts until all the pieces are correctly aligned and clearances are checked and verified. Begin at the exhaust manifold (refer to Figure 3) and install the short pipe and converter, or crossover pipe (don't forget to install the downstream oxygen sensor in the converter).

Next, fit the long pipe, G, over the short pipe, H, from the converter as shown in Figure 5 (Note: there might be a tab, J, on the pipe that fits into a vee on the long pipe to ensure proper alignment). Then, install the muffler by fitting the inlet pipe onto the long pipe (the same tab and vee will be on these two pieces). Finally, insert the hangers, K, into the rubber isolators, L (see Figure 6).

To finish the job, properly align the entire exhaust system, being sure that the proper clearances exist between the floor pan, M, and heat shields, N, of the vehicle (see Figure 7). Also, be sure that the tailpipe, O, is properly aligned with the rear fascia opening, P, as can be seen in Figure 8. Nothing says “lousy job†like the tailpipe touching the bumper cover.

When all is in place, tighten the clamps and the job is done.

Courtesy of Mopar Magazine
Figure 1
Figure 1

Figure 2
Figure 2

Figure 3
Figure 3

Figure 4
Figure 4

Figure 5
Figure 5

Figure 6
Figure 6

Figure 7
Figure 7

Figure 8
Figure 8